November 2015

But it’s not really. It feels more like early January. Nevertheless, I shall post the conventional notes for November (and think I’ve said this before…) but you may actually like to visit earlier times, on what to plant – but not when.

I suggest looking at this month’s lunar rhythms and in conjunction refer to the last few years of both December and January in terms of plant types. Until I get myself organised and reconfigure my own garden thinking (well I’ve been doing lots of thinking) around climate change and planting schedules. The next best, or best, thing is to try your own ideas and experimenting for your own garden, based upon weather, temperature, local soils and local seeds.

I’d add to this by suggesting adding heaps of compost, watering and then very heavy mulching. Considering which plants you really want/need to keep over time, what plants are critical to feed you and others, and consolidating your garden through the dry times ahead. And hoping I’m very wrong.

Forget about high resource-users and water-users, like corn, or peas and beans which don’t really like heat blasts when flowering. If you wish to grow them, ensure you have protection in the form of shade cloth in the case of the legumes, and heaps of healthy greywater in the case of corn. Does frostcloth work with radiant heat as well as cold?

Anyway, the conventional notes are as follows. Good luck and good growing.

Guide for temperate areas in SE Australia for November 2015:

Leaf Days: 2-5, 12-15,21-23, 30 – amaranth (s,p) basil (s,p), bok choi (s,p), chinese cabbage (s,p), chives (s,p) dill (s,p), celery (s,p), endive (s,p), mibuna (s,p), mizuna(s,p), orach (s, p), rocket (s,p), tat soi (s,p), lettuce(s,p), mustard(s,p), salad greens (s,p), silverbeet(s,p) spinach(s,p), chives (p,s), garlic chives (p), coriander(s,p), dill (s,p), parsley(s,p), radicchio (s,p), rhubarb (s,p), clover (s)

Fruit Days: 5-7, 15-17, 23-25 – bush and climbing beans (s,p) capsicum (s,p) peas (s,p), strawberries (p), amaranth (s,p) chilli (s,p), corn (s,p), cucumber (s,p), eggplant (s,p), okra (s,p), pumpkin (s,p), rockmelon (s,p), snopeas (s,p), squash (s,p), strawberries (p), tomatoes (s,p), watermelon (s,p), zucchini (s,p)

Root Days: 7-10, 17-19, 25-27– asparagus (s,p), jerusalem artichoke (p), beetroot( s,p), carrots (s,p), celeriac (p), fennel (p), kohlrabi (p), leek (p), spring onion (s,p) salad onion (s,p), bunching onions (s,p) potatoes (s,p), parsnip (s), shallots (s,p), radish (s,p), turnip (s,p)

Flower Days: 1-2, 10-12, 19-21, 27-30 -broccoli (s,p), cauliflower (s,p), borage (s,p), globe artichoke (s,p), sunflower (s,p) marigold (s,p), nasturtium (s,p), other flowers

Other Auspicious Gardening Dates:

Moon opposite Saturn: 20 (a good time to plant, transplant, etc and 48hrs around it)

Moon Descending: 15-28

Moon Ascending: 1-15, 28-30

Full Moon/New Moon: 26/12

Nodes*: 8 and 21

Perigee***: 24

Apogee***: 8

Apply soil food: 27-28 best, then 7-10, 17-19, 21-23

Apply foliar food: 27-30 best, then 1-2. 10-12, 19-21

Mulch: anytime, but watch for frosts (thick straw mulch will intensify them) and remember the slugs!

Transplant seedlings, plants, cuttings: 27-28 best, then 7-10, 17-19, 21-23

Graft: 13-15, 28-30

Note that (s) means sow as seeds and (p) means plant as seedlings. Beware that frosts can still occur in Newstead through November for rost tender summer seedlings!

Dates are a guide for these particular crops. For more info see Planting Notes. Timing will vary from region to region (particularly with climate change) and even within a garden’s own microclimates. Of course, rainfall, weather conditions and your own schedule will influence when you garden.

# Broccoli can be grown year round, apart from the hottest months. I prefer to plant through the colder months to avoid having the broccoli forming heads when the cabbage moth butterfly is active, in late spring and summer.

* Each month there are a couple of ‘node days’ when the sun and moon are in opposition. Many biodynamic gardeners choose not to plant on these days, or at least a couple of hours either side of the node.

** Perigee is the point where the moon is closest to the earth, so the influence of the moon is strongest. Apogee is the furthest point from the earth, so the opposite occurs